Issue 11: Lisbon

Lisbon's steep, sun-drenched hills are home to crumbling tiled facades, pastel hues, and landscaped parks. In a city awash with new opportunities, Lisboetas still share in their collective memory of the city's past.

Inside This Issue:
Trace the history of the traditional pastries and sweets borne out of Portugal's convents, including the famous pastel de nata. Visit Taberna do Calhau, where architect-turned-chef Leopoldo Calhau has designed a modern homage to Alentejo taberna culture. Hear the stories of Lisbon's rescued neon signs from days gone by—and the graphic designers who turned their lives upside down to preserve them. Meet the producers making grogue—and preserving Cape Verdean culture—in the city's hidden sugarcane fields.